Window replacement is a $5K-$20K decision for most homeowners. They're comparing 2-3 contractors and reading every detail. A proposal that specifies frame material, glass performance, energy ratings, and warranty comparison wins the trust battle.
Number and sizes of windows, type (double-hung, casement, picture, slider, bay, awning), stories, property age. Note whether this is full-frame replacement (removing the entire frame down to rough opening) or insert/retrofit (new window fits inside existing frame). This distinction affects price and scope significantly.
Frame material: vinyl, fiberglass, wood, aluminum-clad wood, composite. Glass: double-pane or triple-pane, low-E coating (type and surface), argon or krypton fill, U-factor, SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient), VT (Visible Transmittance). Brand, product line, and color. These specs justify the price difference between a $300 window and a $900 window.
Full-frame vs insert replacement. Exterior trim: brick mold, J-channel, or capping. Interior trim: stool, apron, casing. Flashing and waterproofing method. Insulation around frame (spray foam, backer rod). Screen type (standard, pet-resistant). Note how existing trim and siding will be handled.
List the U-factor and SHGC for the specified windows. Calculate estimated annual energy savings vs current windows. Note any ENERGY STAR certification. Federal tax credits (IRA: up to $600/year for qualifying windows). Utility rebates if available in the area. This helps the client justify the investment.
Per-window pricing with size and type specified. Separate labor line or included per unit. Additional items: exterior capping/trim (per window), interior trim (per window), structural repairs (per window, if needed). Old window disposal. Show total.
Manufacturer warranty: glass seal (typically 20 years), frame (lifetime on vinyl), hardware (10 years). Your labor warranty (typically 2-5 years). What voids the warranty (improper cleaning, modifications). Warranty transferability (important for resale).